An Imperfect Dozen

Posted by Rena Gross
Monday, April 14, 2008

Like many modern folks, I'm accustomed to seeing perfectly matched eggs. Even the organic eggs that I buy at the supermarket are uniform in size within the box, regardless of slight variations in shell tone. Recently, I decided to switch to shopping at the farmer's market, where I was surprised one day when I passed a booth selling eggs whose size varied among the dozen. I suppose that I had previously assumed that all hens of a certain type always laid identically sized eggs -- i.e., one sort would always lay large, another would always lay extra large, etc. But really, I hadn't thought about it too much. I've never seen a real hen laying real eggs.

I had no idea that hens might lay eggs of varying size. I then leapt to a conclusion that, perhaps, "organic" hens in the "natural" state must lay eggs of wildly varying size, like that ones I saw at the Union Square Greenmarket, in the same way the humans have babies of varying weights. Why were the supermarket eggs all the same size? Does this have something to do with agribusiness? What have we done to our fair chickens?

I shared these thoughts with my father over dinner one night not long afterwards. As I spoke, I saw the fear that he had raised an idiot flash behind his eyes.

"No, Rena," he said gently, "they sort the eggs."

Oh. When I ran this story past other people, including some of the farmers at the greenmarket, they all expressed amusement that I had not known that supermarket eggs achieve their uniformity through presorting. I must have looked like an idiot asking apparently obvious-to-everyone-but-me questions like, "Do different hens within a group lay different sized eggs?"

But seriously, how was I to know? I grew up in the suburbs, live in the city, and have never seen an egg in the nest. Aside from childhood trips to historical reconstructions like Colonial Williamsburg, I've never seen people interacting with live poultry.

I'm just one more urban girl with an imperfect idea of where her food comes from. And maybe, not knowing much about it made a fool out of me. But I'm nothing if not eager to learn. So I took the opportunity to poke around at the farmers' market and educate myself on the various kinds of eggs you might see shopping outside of a supermarket:

eggs chicken eggs, halved and inverted A duck egg and a quail egg, sunny side up A duck egg, a chicken egg, and a quail egg, hard-boiled to show the contrast in size Quail eggs have a speckled shell and are almost too pretty to eat
  1. Chicken eggs are the old familiars. The ones you see in the photographs were purchased at a greenmarket and have bright marigold-yellow yolks.
  2. Pullet eggs are smaller, laid by younger hens. They are a fun choice if you're looking for a way to control portion size.
  3. Duck eggs are larger than chicken eggs, more oblong in shape, and their shells have a matte, parchment-like tone to them. They have a bright yolk with a more orangey color than you'd see in a chicken egg, and taste oddly egg-ier than chicken eggs. Bakers like to use them because they loft up higher in cakes.
  4. The cute kid siblings of the egg world, quail eggs are considered a delicacy, although you might find them too pretty to eat. The insides of the shells are pale blue, and the outsides are speckled. Some confectioner's shops sell chocolate imitations, but there's really no risk of confusion.

Please rest assumed that every delicious egg in the photos was eaten. Yes, I had fun playing with my breakfast food all week.

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 on  04/14  at  09:51 PM

my parents raised chickens when i was very young and later when i was also in high school/college, so i got to see all sorts of eggs.  the absolute best were the double yokers, no real explanation for how they ended up that way, i suppose two embryos fused at the proper stage??  we did even get a triple yoker (! yes that’s three yokes within a single eggshell) once, but that was even more freakish.

many of your observations are correct, we never saw eggs the size of those you can purchase in a supermarket.  those large(r) eggs must come from a specific breed of chicken which i’m not familiar with.  but nothing beats fresh eggs like that.  nothing.

 on  04/14  at  10:10 PM

Those quail eggs are lovely. I have seen them at the Asian market I sometimes shop at, but I’ve never eaten them.

I really want to get some chickens. I don’t know if it will happen, but it’s a dream of mine.

 on  04/14  at  11:21 PM

Do it Stella! When I was about 9 years old my folks rented a broody hen from a local farmer and bought a big paper bag full of eggs - chickens, ducks and geese - for her to sit on. She hatched them all, and it was hilarious to watch her try to raise her mixed race family. The ducks and geese were unable to roost like the chickens, so they just sat underneath their ‘mother’ on the floor of the henhouse. She also tried to peck the webbing off of their feet. You could see her thinking “Something’s wrong here.”

I love my cats, but those birds were the best pets I ever had. Geese are very loyal!

Kids should have poultry for pets. Do it!

 on  04/22  at  02:22 PM

Eggcellent topic that hatches more questions:
How does our food get to us in the form we are accustomed to seeing it?
Why don’t schools cover food/energy/materials supply systems despite it affecting everyone from table to global politics?
Who ever even sees a traditional farm when most farms are single-product agribusiness and far away from population/school centers?
What kind of egg does the earth most resemble?
Why doesn’t anyone know that Rena once walked away from cooking eggs and they burned to crunchy black--ok, a long time ago, but can you trust what she says about eggs? 
At each meal, I explain to my toddlers where food comes from; each day, I tell them how pencils, paper, clothing, toys, etc are made. If they would only eat eggs, I’d talk about Rena’s essay with them :)

Rena Gross  on  04/28  at  08:39 PM

Jessie, that was the first time I ever cooked eggs!

Rena Gross  on  04/28  at  09:17 PM

The time I forgot about the eggs and burnt them black, not the times I took the photos.

Afroblanco  on  04/28  at  10:02 PM

Don’t feel bad, I wouldn’t have guessed how supermarkets get eggs of uniform size.  To be honest, the whole idea of presorting eggs is a little absurd.  Do people really care if they get differently-sized eggs?

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